The SKINUANCE® Skincare Encyclopedia
AHA
AHA products, like BHAs, are chemical peels. Compared to mechanical peels with exfoliating bodies, they act more gently and do not damage the skin's surface. The abbreviation AHA stands for alpha-hydroxy acid. This is the acidic component of many fruits. This includes glycolic acid, malic acid, lactic acid, or citric acid, for example. It is particularly well-suited for skin that is prone to impurities, blackheads, as well as pigmentation spots or couperose. They are small multitaskers and work wonders. They remove dead skin cells from the outermost layer of the skin and thus support the skin's own processes. They essentially exfoliate the skin from the inside out and reduce UV light-induced pigmentation disorders. They have a cleansing effect and promote the flow of sebum from the pores, which is often the cause of blockages and thus deeper skin impurities (especially in the case of acne). They activate the skin and strengthen the skin barrier with regular use. The skin becomes smoother, finer-pored, softer, and more resilient, and the overall complexion becomes more even. At the same time, the skin becomes more positively permeable to care products, as they can penetrate and work better in the "peeled" skin that has been freed from dead skin flakes. Important for the best possible effect is not only the acid content but especially the pH value of the product. A high concentration cannot unfold its effect in an overly neutral pH environment. And less in an optimally buffered formulation is often more, to avoid irritating the skin too much.
BHA
BHAs are also classified as chemical peels. Often, beta-hydroxy acids (BHA) appear in connection with the name salicylic acid. BHAs are ideal for oily and impure skin that is prone to pimples and clogged pores. They regulate sebum production and have an antibacterial effect. BHA acids can additionally reduce excessive skin keratinization and are also ideal for rough skin. Here too, a specific concentration is best suited for the effect. Not too high in percentage and thus irritating to the skin, so that salicylic acid can ideally be integrated into the daily cleansing routine for oily and/or impure skin types.
Cetearyl Isononanoate
The vegan burzel gland oil, which is hidden behind the INCI term Cetearyl Isononanoate, works true wonders. Nature has created something unique here that we have emulated and utilized in cosmetics. In particular, waterfowl such as ducks or flamingos have a skin gland that secretes a smooth oil, with which the animals 'cream' their feathers and keep them supple. This way, the feathers remain water-repellent and protected even in wet and humid environments. The wax replicated for cosmetics from plant-based raw materials regulates the moisture content of the skin, protects it from drying out, and teaches it to re-oil itself. The skin remains supple and protected, the skin barrier is strengthened, and the elasticity of the skin is promoted.
Dermis
The dermis, also known as the corium, is located between the epidermis (outer skin) and the subcutaneous tissue (subcutis), which mainly consists of fat cells. More precisely, it is the connective tissue, the supportive framework of our skin, which is interwoven with collagen fibers. These fibers keep the skin elastic and effectively stretch it upwards. Like a spring mattress, these fibers lose elasticity with increasing age, the skin becomes flabbier, collapses, and lines and wrinkles appear on the surface. With targeted care products that positively stimulate collagen synthesis and thus the production of these fibers, the supportive framework can be maintained as long as possible and in the best possible way.
Epidermis
The epidermis, also known as the outer skin, forms the protective barrier of the skin against environmental influences such as dust, germs, and bacteria. The most important property of the epidermis is protection against UV radiation. Its outermost layer consists of keratin cells, with dead keratin cells on top, which we perceive as rough and scaly skin. These renew approximately every four weeks. As an outer shield for the body, an intact, well-maintained, and healthy epidermis is crucial. It is important to have good, regular, and sustainable hydration to keep the skin supple and to support its own processes as best as possible.
Fruit acid
There are various types of fruit acids, which are mostly derived from fruits. However, modern fruit acid cosmetics are now produced in laboratories to ensure an optimal effect-tolerance balance. Fruit acids are excellent as a mild chemical peel - in contrast to mechanical peels, which can irritate or even injure the skin. As a true miracle remedy, fruit acids ensure optimal removal of dead keratin cells for smooth skin and improved absorption of care products, for reducing pore size, for reducing UV-induced pigmentation spots, for strengthening the epidermis, for building elastin and collagen, for improved drainage of sebum secretion from the pores, and for an anti-inflammatory effect (important for acne).
Glycine
Glycine (INCI: Glycine) is a naturally occurring amino acid in the skin. As a care ingredient, it corresponds optimally with the skin due to its skin-identical character. It promotes the moisture retention capacity of the skin as well as the skin-neutral pH value. Glycine strengthens the skin's framework (matrix), makes the skin firmer, and aids in the repair and regeneration of the skin. It promotes collagen production and ensures that the skin looks younger and more supple. Glycine also serves as a buffer in cosmetic formulations. It neutralizes the formulation and thus has a calming effect on the skin.
Hyaluronic acid
First of all, hyaluronic acid is a skin-identical active ingredient and can be optimally absorbed and tolerated by the skin. And not all hyaluronic acid is the same. There are different types that vary in size and effect. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid (INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate, molecular weight approx. 1.7 MDa) has a larger molecule size and predominantly remains on the skin's surface. It visibly smooths the skin and retains moisture on the skin with a thin film. It effectively binds moisture in the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin) and prevents the rapid evaporation of the skin's own water (TEWL = transepidermal water loss), thus acting as a moisturizer. It has a visually skin-tightening and smoothing effect. This makes the skin supple, preserving its tension and elasticity. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate, molecular weight approx. 10,000 – 50,000 Dalton) is an advancement of the "normal" hyaluronic acid. It has an extremely low molecular weight and can be quickly and deeply absorbed by the skin. There, it plays a very important role in cell regulation, cell communication, and thus in anti-aging. Skin renewal is stimulated, and wound healing is promoted. At the same time, it contributes to the firming of the upper skin layer. The improved lipid barrier reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This helps maintain the suppleness and elasticity of the skin. Mini hyaluronic acids (Mini HA; INCI: Hydrolized Sodium Hyaluronate) or split hyaluronic acids with very small molecular weight can help skin cells reduce UV-induced stress. In addition, they exhibit a higher antioxidant effect than other higher molecular weight hyaluronic acids. They influence sebum production in the skin and thus reduce skin shine. They soothe, penetrate the skin, and ensure an even skin tone.
INCI
International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients translates to "Internationale Nomenklatur für kosmetische Inhaltsstoffe." It is an international guideline for the correct and uniform declaration of the ingredients of cosmetics. This declaration is mandatory to be indicated on the packaging of cosmetic products according to the European Cosmetics Regulation and transparently clarifies the content and the exact active ingredients of the product. Here, the higher concentrated active ingredients are listed first, and the lowest dosed ones at the end. This allows consumers to get a clear picture of the formulation, for example, whether it contains a perfume or what type of hyaluronic acid is included in a formulation.
Jojoba oil
Jojoba oil, also known as Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, is extracted from the nuts of the jojoba plant. It represents a liquid wax that spreads little, absorbs quickly, and leaves a very pleasant skin feel. Jojoba oil forms a non-occlusive, breathable film on the skin, thus protecting the skin from moisture loss. It makes the skin more resilient against external environmental influences, contains important vitamins and minerals, and has anti-inflammatory substances.
collagen
Collagen is the connective tissue, the support structure of our skin. It consists of a network of collagen fibers and smaller collagen fibrils, which contain important collagen molecules and collagen peptides. This mesh maintains the skin's elasticity and firmness. Over the course of life, collagen synthesis in our body slows down, less collagen and elastin are produced, and the skin "collapses" and increasingly sags. Elasticity decreases, and lines and wrinkles form. Effective cosmetics, for example with skin-identical peptides, trigger this synthesis and further stimulate production for effective anti-aging.
Lecithin
Lecithin, also referred to as phospholipid, occurs naturally in the skin. It is part of the cell membranes and the hydro-lipid film of the skin. The skin-identical active ingredient nourishes and has a re-fatting effect, regenerates the skin barrier, and thus improves the elasticity and moisture retention of the skin. The skin is smoothed, the absorption of further active ingredients in the skin is promoted, and keratinization disorders are regulated.
Mitochondria
The energy supply of our body lies in the mitochondria of all cells. And in the skin cells lies the key to youthful skin. While working, skin cells consume and require a lot of energy. As the "power plants of the cells," they produce the so-called adenosine triphosphate (ATP). Effective cosmetics can support this energy supply and trigger the skin's own production. For example, the active ingredient sunflower sprout extract can increase the NAD+ level, energize the mitochondria, and thus combat the 5 main characteristics of aging.
Natural active ingredients
Ingredients of natural origin are raw materials from nature. Many come from plants, such as roots, herbs, or flowers, while others are of mineral or animal origin. It is the natural ingredients that actively work with the skin and make it healthier. Bisabolol from chamomile oil, allantoin from horse chestnut bark, avocado oil, the plant-based and simultaneously skin-identical active ingredient glycerin, argan oil from the fruits of the argan tree growing in Morocco, green tea extract, rutin, grape extract, moss extract, or aloe vera from the plant of the same name. These are just a few examples of natural active ingredients that we use and that optimally work with the skin due to their high effectiveness while maintaining high compatibility. Not to be confused with pure natural cosmetics, which can lead to limited effectiveness due to the omission of certain substances. Thus, active ingredient cosmetics for mature or stressed skin should not only work preventively but also, in particular, regeneratively. And here, natural cosmetics often reach their limits.
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Evening primrose oil is obtained by cold pressing evening primrose seeds. Certain ingredients of the oil are skin-identical, are therefore excellently absorbed by the skin, and impress with the highest possible compatibility. The oil increases skin elasticity and enhances the barrier function of the skin. It reduces transepidermal water loss and acts due to the high content of polyunsaturated fatty acids.
Peptides
Peptides are true anti-aging wonders. They can penetrate deeply into the skin due to their small size and stimulate collagen synthesis. In particular, skin-identical peptides are attributed with superpowers. These include, for example, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, an anti-aging peptide with a chain of 6 amino acids that can reduce the degree of existing wrinkles and effectively counteract their formation. Botulinum toxins (Botox) target the same neurotransmitter and aim at the same wrinkle formation mechanism, but in a different way. The peptides work more gently and do not cause complete muscle paralysis, but relax the musculature. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, for example, stimulates microcirculation and reduces water accumulation in the tissue. Thus, they reduce dark circles and swelling around the eyes (bags under the eyes, eyelid swelling), smooth and decrease the breakdown of the skin matrix. They improve skin elasticity.
Q10
In the INCI, the active ingredient Q10 is hidden under the names Ubiquinone or Ubiquinol and is an energy supplier for the cells. The cells use it to generate and control energy. The coenzyme is a quinone derivative with a lipophilic isoprenoid side chain. It shows structural similarities to vitamin E. It captures harmful oxygen compounds (free radicals) and thus acts similarly to vitamin E as an antioxidant.
retinol
Vitamin A (INCI: Retinol) is a regenerating vitamin that improves natural skin function. It increases mitotic activity, meaning it boosts and promotes enzyme activity and collagen content in the skin. Retinol plumps the skin, provides fullness and elasticity, and improves skin hydration. Through a mild peeling activity of retinol, the complexion becomes more even and the radiance improves. It can regenerate prematurely aged skin due to UV radiation and reduces UV light-induced pigment shifts. Vitamin A harmonizes keratinization, improves epithelialization, and increases collagen content in the skin.
Squalane
Squalane (INCI: Squalane) is made from olives. Squalane provides a silky, non-greasy skin feel due to its good spreading ability. The unsaturated variant of squalane, squalene, is part of the natural hydrolipid film (sebum) of the skin. Therefore, the skin-identical squalane has a high affinity for sebum and thus has a low irritation potential.
Tiger grass
Centella Asiatica (INCI: Asiatic Acid, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid) is obtained as an extract from the Asian water pennywort, also known as tiger grass. The Centella Asiatica plant (Gotu Kola) has been used for over 3000 years in Ayurvedic and traditional medicine in Asia for wound healing in injuries, as a tonic, and as an antibacterial and antiviral agent. Centella Asiatica significantly increases the synthesis of Collagen I and II in fibroblasts, which means it has a wound healing effect (even for larger wounds). The powerful triterpene extract reduces redness, tightens, and soothes the skin. Centella Asiatica is used as an anti-aging agent. The extract presented here is standardized to the active ingredients of Centella Asiatica.
Subcutaneous fat tissue
Subcutaneous fat tissue is a healthy and natural component of the body. It serves as a thermal insulator and energy store. It also acts as a cushion for the more delicate areas of the skin. As we age, subcutaneous fat tissue diminishes, leading to changes in the shape of the face and facial expression. Not only do the lips lose volume, but the face appears smaller, narrower, and bonier, and the facial contours sag. The skin lacks the underlying cushion, causing it to appear youthful, firm, and smooth. Here, special active ingredients intervene and plump up the thinning skin from within at the right places, sustainably restoring more fullness and elasticity to sagging skin.
Vitamin E
Vitamin E (INCI: Tocopherol) smooths the skin's relief, improves the hydration of the epidermis, and enhances the binding of water in the skin. It has anti-inflammatory properties and stimulates cell regeneration, thereby reducing skin damage, e.g., from UV radiation (sunburn). It is a lipophilic (fat-soluble) vitamin that has a strong antioxidant effect by binding oxygen atoms of free radicals and slowing down oxidation processes. Thus, vitamin E is a valuable anti-aging shield for our skin.
Grape extract
Red grape extract (INCI: Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract) is obtained from Tempranillo grapes. It is a concentrate of grape polyphenols, which contain particularly high levels of catechins, epicatechins, plant acids, tartaric salts, tannins, and flavonoids with high antioxidant capacity. Due to the geographical location (Ribera del Duero, Spain) of the cultivation areas, there is a particularly high content of polyphenols. The red grape extract is a very effective radical scavenger. It protects lipids, proteins, nucleic acids, and can thus delay the aging process of cells. Additionally, the red grape extract protects other antioxidants like vitamin E and vitamin C, resulting in a synergy effect. Furthermore, the red grape extract reduces the activity of enzymes such as collagenases (which break down collagen in the skin) and ascorbic acid oxidase. This also achieves an anti-aging effect. Grape water, which is rich in antioxidants, has a soothing and hydrating effect.
Xylitol
Xylitol (INCI: Xylitol) stimulates lactate production. Lactate is skin-identical as part of the Natural Moisturizing Factors and helps maintain the skin's moisture. It contributes to stabilizing the physiological pH value of the skin. Xylitol serves as a humectant to improve skin moisture by binding water in the stratum corneum. Xylitol contributes to the preservation of microbiome diversity and thus the integrity of the skin barrier.
Yoga
With targeted facial yoga, one can strengthen the muscles, promote circulation, and effectively combat wrinkles. For this, we recommend a suitable active ingredient care, such as a wrinkle serum, optimally infused into the skin. This way, wrinkles on the face and neck can be easily "trained away". Important are movements and massage techniques that always go in the direction of the lymph, that is, from the chin and eyes towards the ears. Many beauty tools can be ideally used for infusion. Facial yoga soothes the skin and helps it reduce stress. Often, small exercises are enough to do something good for oneself. This is especially true for the facial muscles. We recommend regular, gentle massages and facial exercises for stressed skin areas in combination with effective care to keep the face and neck firm and healthy and to prevent fine lines.
Cell regeneration
The regular regeneration of the body and skin is crucial for healthy aging. During sleep, growth hormones are released that are responsible for the vital regeneration of cells, including skin cells. Whether after sunbathing, stressful environmental impacts during the day, or simply with the aging of the skin, it requires regenerating care that positively supports the natural regeneration phases of the skin. Providing the skin with suitable active ingredients, especially overnight, is the best anti-aging. Here, regenerating ingredients like retinol, lecithin, ectoin, avocado oil, or vitamin E are true power ingredients and have been proven to slow down the skin aging process.
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